Some of those promises are true, but theyre not the whole story.
What is exfoliation?
Lets start with a brief look at the top layer of your skin, the epidermis.
Their flattened out corpses stick around as the top layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum.
Those dead cells arent useless, though.
They stick around because theyre important, serving as the barrier between you and the environment.
But as we age, that process slows down.
The dullness and flakiness we associate with dry skin is a failure of skins natural exfoliation.
When too much of the stratum corneum hangs around, the cells clump into flakes and scales.
Exfoliating products hasten your skins natural process.
This can be by physical means: scrubbing off the top layer of dead cells.
Done right, exfoliation really does live up to some of its promises.
The dullness and flakiness we associate with dry skin is a failure of skins natural exfoliation.
Do you should probably exfoliate?
(Well, no oneneedsto exfoliate.
This is about making your skin prettier, not healthier.)
The cells of the stratum corneum are held together by chemical bridges calleddesmosomes.
Those are naturally broken down by enzymes in your skin, which require water to function.
So, Dr. Frey says, The best way to exfoliate is to hydrate the skin.
If youre in your twenties, you probably dont need to exfoliate at all.
Your skin is still churning out new cells on the regular.
And theyre not strong enough to fix serious problems.
Wait, but what about scrubs?
Or at least feeling like it’s possible for you to feel it.
But physical exfoliants are not a great idea, for two main reasons.
With a physical scrub, its too easy to end up abrading your skin instead, causing tiny injuries.
All About Acids
Instead of scrubs, considerchemical exfoliants.
They fall into two categoriesalpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
The dermatologists I spoke to preferred glycolic acid for its humectant properties andsolid track record.
This contradicts both many products use instructionsandmany users sense that more is better.
You dont need to help it along too much.
Skin is an organ, Dr. Frey points out.
I know we all think of it as this thing of beauty, but it serves a purpose.
That purpose is protective, and exfoliation means chipping away at your defenses.
Remove the very top layer of cells and youll reveal fresher, glowier cells beneath.
And remember: that moisture is what keeps your skin looking its best.
Companies likeThe OrdinaryandPaulas Choicehave become popular for their focus on simple, single-active-ingredient products.
It also allows some brands to make their products less expensive.
Low prices make more experimentation feasible.
Part of the focus on single-ingredient skin care products is marketing, using scienciness as a stand-in for quality.
On the other hand, benefits are benefits.
To get started with simple exfoliants, you dont have to spend a lot of money.
The Ordinary is a good choice for inexpensive and simple formulations, like theirBHA serumand7% glycolic acid toner.
Another straightforward glycolic acid product isPixis Glow Tonic, at 5% concentration.
you’ve got the option to also look for higher concentrations of acids.
As with any skincare product, start slowly and work your way up.
More is not necessarily better.
You only have so much dead skin to slough off!
And you need some of it for protection!
Chemical exfoliants make your skin extra sensitive to sunlight, so verify youre wearing a daily sunscreen.
It should be broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher.
But really, you should be doing that every day.
Still, dont expect miracles.
Dr. Skotnicki says, Aging is 60 percent genetics.
you’re free to affect about 40 percent of the aging process.
Whether you bake yourself in the sun, whether you smoke.
But, she points out, no product will stop or reverse aging.
Plastic surgery can turn back the clock, but products can only slow it.
Exfoliation is a part of that 40 percent.
So knock yourself outgently, and only once or twice a week.
