The idea of spending time cleaning those tools feels like an insult, but I do it anyway.
Drying is particularly important since this is what will prevent rust.
Rust is the enemy and tools stuck in winter lockup with mud on them will deteriorate faster.
If there’s already some rust, its worth using steel wool to remove it.
I recommend asteel wool attachmentfor your power drill.
This makes fast work of the problem, and without dirtying your hands.
Examine the wood handles, too.
The wood should be cleaned and given a quick wipe-down with some wood oil, likelinseed.
If the wood handle is cracked, it should bereplaced.
If the tool in question requires sharpening, like an ax, address that now.
Dont underestimate the value of sharpening the tips of your spade, too.
Doing so will make it slice through turf and dirt next spring.
Your shears and loppers and other pruning tools should all get sharpened now, before they go into storage.
Repeat all these steps with your hand tools: the trowels, scoops, weeding tools, etc.
check that the metal is clean and dry, the handles in good condition.
First, ensure all the tools are clean.
check that theres no grass or other organic debris on any of the tools.
Remove all the batteries from the tools and store them separately, off the chargers.
These tools should also be stored off the ground; I use a collection oflarge utility hooksto do so.
This works very well, but verify theyre anchored well into studs.
The game is the same: Clean everything.
This means turning the lawnmower over and actually getting all the grass off.
It will rust otherwise.
Now is a fine time to sharpen the blade, too.
Ensure your trimmer or blower is also clean, and then it’s time to drain all the gas.
You dont want it to sit full over winter.
As an alternative, it’s possible for you to add afuel stabilizer, but I never risk it.